14th August 2013



BIRCHEN BOULDERING




Not having climbed for several days now, I thought it would be nice to have an hour or two on the crag this afternoon. I sent a few texts but nobody was available, not to worry, a bit of Bouldering would be equally as good. I drove over to Stanage and arrived at the exact same moment as the rain.
It wasn't very heavy, just a light drizzle, but looking to the West there appeared to be a lot of it, it would make the rock greasy and slippery, to the East looked better, not great but a little brighter. I drove over to Birchen edge which was, as hoped, dry, but brooding. I fancied a crack at a problem called "Scandiarete" which I've tried previously, a couple of times but been unable to do. I warmed up on an easy problem next to it, then moved on to the wall behind, soloing several easy routes to get the blood flowing and muscles moving smoothly. After I had completed half a dozen routes I looked around to see the rain creeping slowly up the valley, I calculated it would be a while longer before it reached me, so I worked out the wall behind. Feeling more flexible, I dropped to the lower level where "Scandiarete" is located, studying it for a few minutes. A decent three finger crimp off a small flake for the right hand, a slap round the corner on bare rock, step up on a smooth sloping right foot out of balance and quickly reach for a sloping hold with the right hand, but I didn't hit it right and fell off. I tried again, this time hitting the hold right, it wasn't as good as I hoped but I stayed stuck. Another quick move with the left hand to another sloping hold, but again I didn't hit it right and fell off. I tried once more, stuck both hands but got my feet wrong, once more I was off. I'd got it sussed now, right hand crimp, left hand round the corner, up on the right foot, hold it there momentarily, left foot up to a high but good edge. Hit the two sloping holds bang on this time, hips tight to the rock, squatting on my left leg, then reach for a good pocket with my left hand heave up and that's it really, two moves to the top and it's all over. A breeze in the end, chuffed all the same. I felt the rain on my face as I stood up on the top. I quickly jumped on "Danes Delight" the adjacent problem, much easier but my feet were skating all over the place on the already damp rock. It was a short session but fun none the less. I would have called at Tim's house for a cuppa but I had neither his address or phone number. Anybody fancy Stanage on Saturday?

The picture at the top of this article is not at Birchen edge but Stanage Plantation.